Curly Hair Tutorial for Amigurumi Doll Versatile FREE Crochet Pattern

Even though this looks like a very elaborated technique, I promise it’s not! What it very much is, is versatile. Because even though it’s only a tutorial for “curly” hair you can build it up or down to create very different styles:

Believe it or not, these were all done the same way!

If you’d like to use the same doll base as I use, you can find it here.

The ad-free and printable version of this pattern can be found here.

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.

ABBREVIATIONS (AMERICAN TERMS)

  • MC: Magic Circle
  • Ch: Chain
  • Sc: Single Crochet
  • Sc inc: Single crochet Increment

Materials Needed:

  • 4.5mm Crochet Hook
  • Medium Weight Yarn (Used: Red Heart Super Saver in Warm Brown)
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended)
  • Pins

Pattern

OPTIONAL WIG CAP:

This creates a wig cap that can be sewn onto the Basic Doll Base to cover any “bald spots” in case you’re worried about the background color showing through the hair.

Using the same color as the hair:

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6: (2sc, 1 sc inc, 2sc) x6 (36)
  • Round 7-14: Sc  around. (8 rounds), (36), Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing, about 20 inches.

Place the wig cap on top of the doll’s head and align it as you please, I like to make it so that the back of the hairline almost touches the neck. Sew the outer loop of each stitch onto the doll.

CURLS:

You will need approximately 8 strands to cover the whole wig cap, and from then you can add more as you please to change the shape and volume of the hair.

  • Round 1: Leave a 2 inch tail at the start. Ch 51, turn around, skip the first stitch and work 50 Sc inc. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing, about 12 inches.

This completes one curl. Place the tip of the curl facing inwards so that it frames the face and pin it in place if you’d like. Place the rest of the curl as shown below, working in an “S” shape:

You can hold it in place as you sew it, or you can place a few pins to hold it and remove them as you go. Careful not to leave any pins in the doll! 

Hide the short yarn tail inside the doll’s head, grab the next strand and repeat the process until the entire head is covered.

 I find that the curls right around the face of the doll should be the most detailed ones, as they are your work’s frame, in a way.  If you’d like more volume, layer the curls until the hair looks just like you pictured it. For example, this character called for more “box-y” shaped hair, so I kept adding curls to the sides until it almost looked like it had corners.

The advantage of doing 51 chains at a time is that you get a manageable length for every curl, and it is easier to work up to the style that you want instead of having “leftover” hair. But you’re free to do a 100+ chain to begin with if that’s what you’d like!

Thank you for following along! As you can see, this is more of a “tutorial” rather than a pattern, so I’m excited to see all the variations that you guys make ♥

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIA

You may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com

Basic Doll Base Chibi Amigurumi // Nerdy FREE Crochet Pattern

I have played around and re-designed the doll base that I use for my amigurumi over the last couple of years. I prefer to make them look more like caricatures rather than hyper realistic figurines. This involves a lot of experimenting witrh their proportions and their size, but I have finally designed the pattern that makes them look amazing every single time ♥

Making amigurumi is kind of like using building blocks where you pick a doll base + a specific hair style + clothes + accessories. Which is why I made Build Ami, the Amigurumi Series on how to make any amigurumi you want piece by piece.

The ad-free and printable version of this pattern can be found here.

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.

Materials Needed:

  • 4.50mm Crochet Hook
  • Medium Weight Yarn (Red Heart Super Saver)
  • Polyester Fiberfill
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended)
  • Stitch Marker (improvised markers: paper clip, bobby pin, piece of different color yarn)
  • 12mm Safety eyes and their backings (optional)

Pattern

This entire pattern is worked in the round and most of it is a single piece.

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6: (2sc, 1 sc inc, 2sc) x6 (36)
  • Round 7-14: Sc  around. Re-place your stitch marker after completing each row.
    (8 rounds), (36)

ADDING SAFETY EYES:

Skip this section if you’re not using safety eyes. The eyes will be placed between rounds 10 and 11, after the last stitch from round 10 count 5 stitches to the left and place the first safety eye into the next space. Count to the left and place the second eye in the 7th space from the first eye.
In the pictures below, the stitches are placed at the end of rounds 10 and 14.

  • Round 15: (2sc, 1 sc dec, 2sc) x6 (30)
  • Round 16: (3sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (24)
  • Round 17: (1sc, 1 sc dec, 1sc) x6 (18)
  • Round 18: (1sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (12)
  • Round 19: (1sc, 1 sc dec) x4 (8)
  • Round 20: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (12)
  • Round 21: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 22: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 23: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)

Count 7 stitches after the end of this round and sc into the 8th. This creates the first arm hole, we will not work on it until further on. Single crochet a total of 8 stitches across, count 7 stitches to leave untouched and sc into the 8th stitch, sc across for a total of 8 stitches. This completes the first row of the torso.

VERIFY YOUR COUNTING: You should have 2 arm holes consisting of 7 sc each and this first row of the torso should be a total of 16 stitches around.

Set your stitch marker and sc for 5 more rows for a total of 6 sc rows.

LEGS

Since working in the round offsets the stitches, keep track of the end of each row. At the end of the torso’s 6th round:

  • Round 1: Sc 3 (pictured on the right), count 8 stitches back, you should now be on the opposite side of the torso, sc into this 8th stitch, sc 5 to complete the first round

VERIFY YOUR COUNT:
You should now have divided the torso into two equal-sized holes for each leg. (8 stitches each)

Round 2-7: Sc all around

After 7 rounds, sl st and fasten off leaving a 4 inch tail. Using your yarn needle go through the outer loop of each stitch and then pull the tail to close the opening. Hide the yarn end inside.

Attach the yarn at the base of the torso next to the first leg and sc around. To close the gap between the union between the legs grab a random stitch from the middle of the first leg as well as both loops from the next stitch and work a single crochet. This completes the first round. Continue with sc all around for 6 more rounds and close the leg just like you closed the first one.

ARMS

Attach the yarn to a stitch on the corner of an arm gap, sc 7 around and work one sc on the “armpit” area (pictured). There is no evident space to place this sc but you need it in order to have proportionality between arms and legs.

This completes the first round. Sc around for 6 more rows for a total of 7.  Sl st and fasten off leaving a 4 inch tail. Using your yarn needle go through the outer loop of each stitch and then pull the tail to close the opening. Hide the yarn end inside.

Repeat this process on the other side to make the second arm.

This completes the Basic Doll Base pattern. You can add and change details however you need!

Thank you so much for choosing my pattern!
If you liked this design please consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar below (but don’t feel obligated to!)

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Giving Mom Flowers when all Shops are Closed // FREE Crochet Pattern

If there is someone that does not deserve the stress that we’re all collectively sharing, it’s mom. Mother’s day 2020 will surely be one for the records, but social distancing shouldn’t mean that mom won’t get flowers this year.

Think about it! DIY tulips won’t only keep social distancing to a minimum, but they will also serve as a commemoration of this historical event.

This tulip amigurumi pattern is part of the Bulb and Bud pattern that can be purchased right here. But if you have an alternative idea involving tulips only, I leave you with this free pattern 🙂

Free Tulip Bulb Crochet Pattern:

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.

Materials Needed:

  • 4.50mm Crochet Hook
  • Medium Weight Yarn (Sugar ‘n Cream in “White”, Crafter’s Secret in “Hot Pink”, Sugar ‘n Cream in “Hot Green”)
  • > 2oz  Polyester Fiberfill
  • Needle
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended)
  • Stitch Marker (improvised markers: paper clip, bobby pin, piece of different color yarn)
  • 10mm Safety eyes and their backings (for bulb)

Pattern

TULIP BULB

Worked in the round. Using white or beige yarn:

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker, Sl st into the first stitch and ch 1.
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12), sl st and ch 1.
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18), sl st and ch 1.
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24), sl st and ch 1.
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30), sl st and ch 1.
  • Round 6-9: Sc all around (30) (4 rounds), st and ch 1 at the end of each round. Place 10mm safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8 and 6 stitches apart.
  • Round 10: (3sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (24), sl st and ch 1.
  • Round 11: (1sc, 1 sc dec, 1sc) x6 (18), sl st and ch 1.
  • Round 12: Sc all around (18), sl st and ch 1.
  • Round 13: (1sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (12), sl st and ch 1. Stuff with fiber fill
  • Round 14: Sc all around (12), sl st and ch 1.
  • Round 15: (1sc, 1sc dec) x4) (8), sl st and ch 1.
  • Round 16: Sc all around. (8), sl st and fasten off.

Switch to green yarn, from here on you should stuff the stem as you go:

  • Round 17-28: Sc all around (8) (12 rounds), st and ch 1 at the end of each round. Fasten off leaving the stem open.

Using black embroidery floss draw a “v” shaped mouth between the bulb’s eyes, it should be about 1.5 sc wide:

TULIP FLOWER

Using your prefered color for the flower (I chose hot pink because my mom loves these tulips in specific):

BULB CENTER:

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3-5: Sc all around (12) (3 rounds)
  • Round 6: (1 sc, 1sc dec) x4 (8)
  • Round 7-9: Sc all around (8) (3 rounds)
  • Round 10: 4 sc dec (4), fasten off and hide the end.

PETALS:

Repeat this process four times to get four petals in total.

  • Ch 5, skip the first chain and sc 3 across, sc 5 into the last chain.

Keep working on the UNDERSIDE of the chains as if making a U-turn.

  • Sc 3 across, ch1 and turn your work.
  • Sc 5, sc 3 into the same stitch, and sc 5 across, ch1 and turn your work.
  • Sc 6, sc 3 into the same stitch, and sc 6 across, ch1 and turn your work.
  • Fasten off leaving a 6 inch tail for sewing.

Overlap one of the petals over the bulb center and sew  it to the base as pictured. Overlap the remaining 3 petals on top of the other until the bulb center is covered. Once all petals have been sewn to the base, sew the base to the top of the bulb’s stem using yarn that matches the flower color.

And you’re done! This completes one tulip, you can make as many as you want, change the colors around, or embroider funny faces. Maybe pick your mom’s favorite color for the flower! 🙂

Thank you so much for choosing my pattern!
If you liked this design please consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar below (but don’t feel obligated to!)

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIA

You may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com

Squishy Baby Yoda Amigurumi Nerdy FREE Crochet Pattern

Need a last minute present? You can work this pattern in about 3 hours!

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.
If you’d like a printable and ad-free version of this pattern just click here.

Let’s just jump right into it:

Materials:

  • 4.5mm Crochet Hook
  • 12mm Safety eyes and their backings
  • 1oz Light Brown yarn (Red Hearts Super Saver in “Buff”)
  • <1oz Beige yarn (Loops and Threads, Impeccable in “Aran”)
  • 1oz Green yarn (Loops and Threads, Impeccable in “Fern”)
  • <1oz Pink yarn (Red Hearts Super Saver in “Flamingo”)
  • 1oz Fiber fill stuffing
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended)

Pattern:

All of the pieces are worked in the round.

BODY:

Using Green yarn, don’t chain between rounds:

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6-10: Sc all around (5 rows), sl st and cut green yarn off (30)

Place safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9 and with 4 sc between them..

  • Round 11-20: Change to Light Brown yarn, sc all around (10 rows) (30)
  • Round 21: (3sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (24)
  • Round 22: (1sc, 1 sc dec, 1sc) x6 (18)

This is a good point to stuff with fiber fill.

  • Round 23: (1sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (12)
  • Round 24:  6 sc dec (6). Leave a yarn tail about 10 inches long and use your yarn needle to go though the outside loop of these remaining stitches, then pull the yarn to close the opening.

EARS:

Repeat twice to make 2 ears. Using Green yarn, don’t chain between rounds:

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3-5: Sc all around (3 rounds) (12)
  • Round 6: (1 sc, 1 sc dec) x4, fasten off and leave a 6 inch yarn tail for sewing (8)

ARMS:

Repeat twice to make 2 arms. Using Green yarn, don’t chain between rounds:

  • Round 1: MC, 8sc (8) set your marker
  • Round 2 and 3: Sc all around (8)

Sl st and cut off green yarn.

  • Round 4-6: Attach Light brown yarn and sc all around (3 rounds) (8)
  • Round 7: Ch 1, turn your work, sc 3, ch 1 and fasten off leaving a 6 inch yarn tail for sewing (8)

Pin the arms to the body’s sides. They should be at a slight inward angle and the top corner should be placed 1 brown row down (right after round 11). After you are satisfied with the look, slightly stuff them with fiber fill and sew the arms to the body.

SCARF:

  • Round 1: Using Beige yarn, sl st around any post of the body’s 10th round (last green round). Ch 1, Sc around every post in this row. (30)
  • Round 2-4: Sl st into last round’s first sc, ch 1, and sc all around (3 rounds), (30)

After round 4, sl st into the first sc and fasten off the yarn, weave the end into the scarf and into the body.

FINAL DETAILS:

Flatten the ears and sew them in place, in directly opposite sides of the head and about one row above the scarf. OPTIONAL: sew a small pink glisten on the outside eye corners to create a “blush”.

And you’re done! Enjoy your little beanie baby Yoda ♥

Thank you so much for choosing my pattern!
If you liked this design please consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar below (but don’t feel obligated to!)

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIA

You may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com

Baby Yoda Christmas Ornament Nerdy FREE Crochet Pattern

I haven’t even watched the Mandalorian but I finally finished the semester and I have time off to do as much crochet as I like ❤️This is a pattern that you can work out in less than two hours, so it’s the perfect way to go if you need a last minute gift or decoration!

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.

If you’d like a printable and ad-free version of this pattern just click here.

Materials:

  • 4.5mm Crochet Hook
  • 6mm Safety eyes and their backings
  • <1oz Gray yarn (Red Hearts Super Saver in “Dusty Gray”)
  • <1oz Brown yarn (Red Hearts Super Saver in “Coffee”)
  • <1oz Green yarn (Loops and Threads, Impeccable in “Fern”)
  • <1oz Pink yarn (Red Hearts Super Saver in “Flamingo”)
  • <1oz Fiber Fill stuffing
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended)

Pattern:

All of the pieces are worked in the round.

POD:

Using Gray yarn, don’t chain between rounds:

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6: (2sc, 1 sc inc, 2sc) x6 (36)
  • Round 7-10: Sc around (4 rounds), (36)
  • Round 11: Set your marker and Sc 18 (18)
  • Round 12: Ch1, sc 18 (18)
  • Round 13; Ch 1, sc 18 (18)
  • Round 14: Ch1, (2 sc, 1 sc dec, 2 sc) x3 (15)
  • Round 15: Ch1, (3 sc, 1sc dec) x3 (12)
  • Round 16: Ch1, (1sc, 1sc dec, 1sc dec) x3 (9)
  • Round 17: Ch1, (1sc, 1sc dec) x3 (6)
  • Round 18: Ch1 3sc dec, sl st and yarn off(3)

Using Brown yarn, don’t chain between rounds:

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6: (2sc, 1 sc inc, 2sc) x6, sl st into the next stitch and yarn off (36)

Fold the brown circle into an L shape and sew it to the edge of the gray piece. The stitch count is the same, so sewing should be failry easy. When the pieces are almost sewn shut, stuff the pod with fiber fill and finish sewing.

HEAD:

Using Green yarn, don’t chain between rounds:

  • Round 1: MC, 4sc (4) set your marker
  • Round 2: 4 sc inc (8)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x4 (12)
  • Round 4: 12 sc, sl st into the next stitch, yarn off (12)

Attach the safety eyes between rounds 3 and 4 with one stitch between them. Sew the head to the brown base of the sphere using green yarn.

EARS:

Using Green yarn: Chain 4, skip the first stitch and sl st into the second one. Sc into the next stitch and sl st in the next. Ch 2, now you will be working on the UNDERSIDE of the chain, skip the two chains you just made and sl st into the stitch you did the last sl st. Sc into the next stitch and sl st in the next. Make a final sl st if you deem necessary. Fasten off and leave a 6 inch tail of yarn for sewing.

SCARF:

Working with Beige yarn:
Ch 15, sl st to first chain to form a loop. Ch 1, sc 15 all around, sl st at end of round, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

FINAL DETAILS

Fix the scarf around the head leaving the eyes exposed and sew it with beige yarn.
After the scarf is done sew the ears to the sides of the head.
Add two small “blushes” to the corners of the eyes with pink yarn
and hide all the yarn ends onside the pod before cutting the excess off.
To make it an ornament just cut an 8 to 10 piece or gray yarn and thread it through the top stitches of the pod.

And voilá! Your little ornament is done!

Thank you so much for choosing my pattern!
If you liked this design please consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar below (but don’t feel obligated to!)

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIA

You may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com

Pokemon Inspired Oddish Nerdy FREE Crochet Pattern

Simple and essential to your Pokemon amigurumi collection, this Oddish crochet pattern is easy to follow and totally beginner friendly. Its round shape makes it easy to crochet and it kind of double as a stress reliving ball!

Materials Needed:

  • 4.50mm Crochet Hook
  • Medium Weight Yarn in Steel Blue and Bright Green. The actual colors used were Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in “Sky Blue” and Crafter’s Secret in “Jelly Bean”.
  • Polyester Fiberfill.
  • Red felt (about a 2inch square)
  • 10 inches of white embroidery floss
  • 10 inches of black embroidery floss
  • 10 inches of red embroidery floss
  • 10 inches of pink medium weight yarn (optional)
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended).
  • Sewing Pins (about 10)
  • Stitch Marker (improvised markers: paper clip, bobby pin, piece of different color yarn)

Gauge

4X4 Sc for every square inch.

If you’d like a printable and ad-free version of this pattern you can find it here.

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.

Pattern

BODY

Working with the blue yarn.

WORKED IN THE ROUND

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6: (2sc, 1 sc inc, 2sc) x6 (36)
  • Round 7: (5sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (42) set your marker
  • Round 8 – 16: Sc around (9 rounds) (42)
  • Round 17: (5sc,  sc dec) x6 (36)
  • Round 18: (2sc,  sc dec, 2sc) x6 (30)
  • Round 19: (3sc,  sc dec) x6 (24)
  • Round 20: (1sc,  sc dec, 1sc) x6 (18) Stuff generously with fiberfill.
  • Round 21: (1sc,  sc dec) x6 (12)
  • Round 22: 6 sc dec (6) Leave a yarn tail about 10 inches long and use your yarn needle to go though the outside loop of these remaining stitches, then pull the yarn to close the opening.

FEET

Working with the blue yarn, repeat twice for two feet.

WORKED IN THE ROUND

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4 – 6: Sc around (3 rounds) (18) Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch yarn tail for sewing.

TOP LEAVES

Working with the green yarn.

WORKED IN THE ROUND

  • Round 1: MC, 4sc (4) set your marker
  • Round 2: 4sc (4)
  • Round 3: 4 Sc inc (8)
  • Round 4: 8 Sc (8)
  • Round 5: (1sc, Sc inc) x4 (12)
  • Round 6 – 10: Sc around (12)
  • Round 11: (1sc, Sc dec) x4 (8)
  • Round 12: 8s, sl st and fasten off, leaving a 6 inch yarn tail for sewing.

Repeat this whole process 5 times for a total of 5 leaves.

ASSEMBLING

Place the feet a little more to the front of the body than the bottom to make Oddish able to sit. Pin them in place and begin to sew them, stuffing lightly as you go.

All five leaves will go on top of the body, but strategically placed.

The first leaf will be centered at the front as shown in the picture (left), the following two will go right behind this one, but widely open. The last two will go behind all previous ones and should “peak” through the leaves on the front as shown in the picture (right).

DETAILING THE FACE

Cut two circles of red felt of about 1cm in diameter and sew them between rounds 10 and 11 of the body, 5 Sc apart using the red embroidery floss. I sewed them on with only two stitches each at the edge of each eye.

The white “twinkle” on the eyes is made with a very simple over and under motion using the white embroidery floss.

The very last step is to draw the mouth with black embroidery floss, for this you will draw a very long “v”. Start one row below the eyes, go down one row and two sc to the side for the first stitch, and two sc to the side and one row up to make the second sitch.

And you’re done! You now have this adorable Oddish for your Pokemon collection.

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIA!

You may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com

2 Inch Ditto Plant Pot Cozy FREE Crochet Pattern

I put together this simple yet wholesome pattern that I’m sure any Pokemon fan would enjoy ♡

The pattern is made to fit a 2inch pot and it includes space for a water drainage hole for watering your plant. This pattern could be easily modified to fit a bigger pot.

Materials:

  • 4.5mm crochet hook
  • Medium weight worsted yarn in Lilac and Black.
  • 6mm Safety eyes (or you could make those out of felt and sew them in place!)

Pattern

  • Round 1: Ch 12, sl st to 1st chain.
  • Round 2: (Sc 1, sc inc) X6
  • Round 3: (Sc 2, sc inc) X6:
  • Round 4: (Sc 3, sc inc) X6
  • Round 5: Back-loop sc all around
  • Round 6-16: (11 rounds) Sc around. Sl st at the end of the last round.

Add the eyes between rounds 7 and 8 with 4sc between them.

For the mouth sew a very long “v” with black yarn starting one row below the eyes and 2sc outside of each eye.

And you’re done! A simple project that is sure to add a lot of personality to your home

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIA!

You may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com

Lion from Steven Universe, Nerdy FREE Chibi Crochet Pattern

I’m so excited to share one of my favorite patterns so far! This could be the perfect gift for a Steven Universe fan.

I designed this piece inspired by the season finale (Change your Mind). It made me so nostalgic about the show that I started working on this little lion right away!

I hope you fellow makers will have as much fun making this project as I did! It ends up being a super fluffy piece you just want to dig your face into ♥

If you’d like a printable and ad-free version of this pattern you can find it here.

If you have any questions or concerns, don’t hesitate to contact me,

Happy Crocheting!
– Diana

Dimensions slightly vary depending on each person’s tension.

Materials Needed:

  • E/4  – 3.50mm Crochet Hook 
  • Medium Weight Yarn [Red Heart Super Saver yarn in colors “Flamingo” (bright pink)  and “Baby Pink” (pastel pink)]
  • Polyester Fiberfill (aprox. 6 oz)
  • 12mm safety eyes for amigurumi
  • 3-4 feet of dark pink embroidery floss 
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended), and sewing needle (for when using the embroidery floss)
  • Sewing Pins (about 10)
  • Stitch Marker (improvised markers: paper clip, bobby pin, piece of different color yarn)
  • Brush (for the mane)

Pattern

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.

Everything but the mane will be worked in the Bright Pink (Flamingo)  yarn.

LION HEAD
WORKED IN THE ROUND

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (2sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6: (4sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (36)
  • Round 7: (5sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (42)
  • Round 8: (6sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (48)
  • Round 9: (7sc, 1sc inc) x6 (54), set marker again
  • Round 10-17: sc around (7 rounds) (54) move your marker after round 17
  • Round 18: (7sc,  sc dec) x6 (48)
  • Round 19: (6sc,  sc dec) x6 (42)
  • Round 20: (5sc,  sc dec) x6 (36)
  • Round 21: (4sc,  sc dec) x6 (30)
  • Round 22: (3sc,  sc dec) x6 (24) now’s a good time to add the eyes and start stuffing with fiberfill!

To add the eyes you will need two 12mm safety eyes and their backings. Place them around the middle row of your work with 11 single crochet stitches between both eyes (refer to image).
After placing the eyes, stuff generously and leave the bottom of your work open, this will serve as a guideline when sewing, leave a long tail of yarn left for sewing (about 2.5 feet).

LEGS
Worked in the round. You will need to make FOUR legs, total.

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4 – 5: sc all around for 2 rounds (18)
  • Round 6: 3sc dec, then sc 12 (15) set your marker again
  • Round 7 – 15: sc all around [9 rounds (15)]
Go ahead and laugh at my stitch marker, it’s ridiculous I know.

If you flatten up the leg, the dent made by the 3sc dec’s should be quite visible to you. The stitch where you finish your 9 sc rows should align with the middle of the dent. Ch 1 and fasten off, except for the very last leg.

After you have finished making 4 legs, flatten them up so that you make sure you finished on the right stitch, the one right opposite to it will be called the back stitch.

BODY

Grab the last leg that you made, the one that still has the working yarn attached to it and ch 10.

Grab the next leg (leg 2) and sc into the back stitch of leg 2, sc 10 for a total of 11 sc, ch 7.

Grab next leg (leg 3), you’ll need to attach the new yarn onto the left side of leg 3. To figure out where to attach the yarn, flatten up leg 3 to find the front stitch and count 4sc to the left, sc onto that stitch and sc 10 for a total of 11 sc, you should now be on the back stitch of leg 3, ch 10.

Grab the last leg (leg 4) and sc onto the front stitch of leg 4, then sc 10 for a total of 11 sc, you should now be on the left side of leg 4.

The last step is to close the cycle by joining leg 4 to the right side of leg 1, flatten leg 1 to find its side stitch and count 4sc from the back of leg 1, sc onto that stitch and sc 10 for a total of 11sc. Place marker here.

Sc around everything for 7 rows, grabbing only one of the outside loops of the chains when going around them. The inside loops will be used when closing the belly. (78)

After 7 rounds it is time to start decreasing at the corners; the start of round 1 is 7 rows on top of where your maker was, now move it to the top. 

  • Round 1: Sc 15 and do a sc dec, sc 17 and sc dec, sc 20 and sc dec, sc 17 and do a sc dec.
  • Round 2: Sc 19 and sc dec (you’ll notice you are now decreasing on top of last rows decreases), sc 16 and sc dec, sc 19 and sc dec, aside from decreasing at the corners, we will now start decreasing at the butt 🙂
    Sc 6 and sc dec (butt), sc 6 and sc dec again.
  • Round 3: Sc 18 and sc dec, now we’ll start decreasing at the front as well, (sc 6, sc dec) x2. Sc 18 and sc dec, sc 4 and  2 sc dec, sc 4 and sc dec. 
  • Round 4: Sc 17 and sc dec, (sc 5 and sc dec) x2, sc 17 and sc dec, sc 1,  3 sc dec, and sc 1, sc dec.
  • Round 5: Sc 16 and sc dec, (sc 4 and sc dec)x2, sc 16 and sc dec 4.
  • Round 6: 15 sc and sc dec, sc 1, sc dec 2,  sc 1, sc dec, sc 15 and sc dec 4.
  • Round 7: 14 sc and sc dec 3, 14 sc and sc dec 2
  • Round 8: 13 sc and sc dec 3, 13 sc and sc dec 1, sl st and fasten off .

We will now finish closing the back with slip stitches, but if we do it from the outside it will look bumpy and weird, so you need to work from the inside. Cut 1ft of yarn and pass it through the opening to the other side (pictured).

Join both sides by slip stitching the single crochets together, for a more seamless look, do it by grabbing the inside loops of the sc’s (pictured)

Continue until you have used all stitches and the opening is closed, ch 1 and fasten off.

Now it’s time to stuff the legs!! Don’t stuff the whole body just yet, we’ll do that once we get started on closing the belly.

CLOSING THE BELLY

  • Round 1: Sl st into the middle of the back (see picture), sc 6 and sc dec, sc 14 and sc, sc 10 and sc dec, sc 14 and sc dec, sc 5 and sc dec( in the middle of the back).
  • Round 2: Sc 4 and sc dec, sc 13 and sc dec, sc 3 and sc dec (in the middle of the front), sc 3 and sc dec, sc 13 and sc dec, sc 4 and sc dec (back).
  • Round 3: Sc 3 and sc dec, sc 12 and sc dec, sc 3 and sc dec (front), sc 2 and sc dec, sc 12 and sc dec, sc 3 and sc dec (back).
  • Round 4: Sc 2 and sc dec, sc 11 and sc dec, sc 2 and sc dec (front), sc 1 and sc dec, sc 11 and sc dec, sc 2 and sc dec.
  • Round 5: Sc 1 and sc dec, sc 10 sc dec, sc 1 and sc dec (front), sc dec, sc 10 and sc dec, sc 1 and sc dec.
  • Sc dec, sc 9 and sc dec, 2 sc dec, sc 9 and finish off with 2 sc dec.

Now’s the time to stuff the belly! You can make it as squishy as you want, and afterwards close the opening with slip stitches.

EARS

You’re going to make two of these for each ear, so you’ll need four in total.

  • 1:  Ch 7, skip the first 2 chains and hdc into the 3rd chain across. Hdc 3 more time for a total of 4 hdc.
  • 2: On the last available chain make 5 hdc.
  • 3: Continue working under the stitches that you just make (kind of like making a U turn), hdc 4 across and ch 2.
  • 4: TURN work, hdc 6 across, and then hdc 3 into the same stitch (at the top), hdc 6 across. Ch 1 and fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail on the last two pieces that you make, using this tail, attach two pieces together back to back with slip stitches as shown:

Attach the completed ears to the top if lion’s head and sew them in place.

MANE

You’ll need to attach a “hair” strand to every single sc post around your lion’s head except for the indicated stitches around the face. Using the pastel pink yarn cut 9 inch long strands, I used close to 470 strands: 

Using the eyes as reference, stop adding strands 3 rows above, 4 rows below, and 3 stitches to the sides.

You’re off to the most fun part now! Your mission is to brush all  of the mane strands until they’re fluffy and look like actual fur!

I used this dog brush that I found at the dollar store because I didn’t want to damage an actual hair brush, plus the very fine wires on this brush make it way easier to break the yarn stands apart. Just be patient and thorough!  

After all the brushing you’ll need to give lion a little haircut by trimming around an inch of the mane. I just went ahead and cut off just enough to make it like a fluffy afro and made the top quite shorter than the rest of it all. After you finish trimming you’ll need to brush all the little fibers away with a less abrasive brush.

TAIL

Make 8 pastel pink strands that are 4.5 inches long and use another strand to tie them up in the middle, brush both ends until fluffy and don’t fold them in half just yet. 

Using the bright pink yarn, ch 9, and slip stitch onto the back of the body of your lion and sc 7 from the second chain from the hook, place the fluffy strands next to the single crochet you just made and “trap” them by doing a single crochet on the last chain and fasten off. Weave in the remaining strands of yarn and brush the fluffy part so that you can hide the middle fold. Trim the ends just like you did with the mane.

FINISHING TOUCHES

You’re going to make a “V” shape in the middle of Lion’s face, 4 stitches across and 3 rows down. Follow the diagram to the right, every time you come down go into the same space but every time you go up go slightly higher until you have 5 strands on each side and then start going slightly lower to create a “heart” shape, keep lowering your stitches until you have 4 strands on each side and then hide the ends strands of embroidery floss.

Using the light pink yarn add those simple blush bits on the corners of lion’s eyes (about 2 sc long) and you’re done!!

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIA!

You may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com