Curly Hair Tutorial for Amigurumi Doll Versatile FREE Crochet Pattern

Even though this looks like a very elaborated technique, I promise it’s not! What it very much is, is versatile. Because even though it’s only a tutorial for “curly” hair you can build it up or down to create very different styles:

Believe it or not, these were all done the same way!

If you’d like to use the same doll base as I use, you can find it here.

The ad-free and printable version of this pattern can be found here.

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.

ABBREVIATIONS (AMERICAN TERMS)

  • MC: Magic Circle
  • Ch: Chain
  • Sc: Single Crochet
  • Sc inc: Single crochet Increment

Materials Needed:

  • 4.5mm Crochet Hook
  • Medium Weight Yarn (Used: Red Heart Super Saver in Warm Brown)
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended)
  • Pins

Pattern

OPTIONAL WIG CAP:

This creates a wig cap that can be sewn onto the Basic Doll Base to cover any “bald spots” in case you’re worried about the background color showing through the hair.

Using the same color as the hair:

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6: (2sc, 1 sc inc, 2sc) x6 (36)
  • Round 7-14: Sc  around. (8 rounds), (36), Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing, about 20 inches.

Place the wig cap on top of the doll’s head and align it as you please, I like to make it so that the back of the hairline almost touches the neck. Sew the outer loop of each stitch onto the doll.

CURLS:

You will need approximately 8 strands to cover the whole wig cap, and from then you can add more as you please to change the shape and volume of the hair.

  • Round 1: Leave a 2 inch tail at the start. Ch 51, turn around, skip the first stitch and work 50 Sc inc. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing, about 12 inches.

This completes one curl. Place the tip of the curl facing inwards so that it frames the face and pin it in place if you’d like. Place the rest of the curl as shown below, working in an “S” shape:

You can hold it in place as you sew it, or you can place a few pins to hold it and remove them as you go. Careful not to leave any pins in the doll! 

Hide the short yarn tail inside the doll’s head, grab the next strand and repeat the process until the entire head is covered.

 I find that the curls right around the face of the doll should be the most detailed ones, as they are your work’s frame, in a way.  If you’d like more volume, layer the curls until the hair looks just like you pictured it. For example, this character called for more “box-y” shaped hair, so I kept adding curls to the sides until it almost looked like it had corners.

The advantage of doing 51 chains at a time is that you get a manageable length for every curl, and it is easier to work up to the style that you want instead of having “leftover” hair. But you’re free to do a 100+ chain to begin with if that’s what you’d like!

Thank you for following along! As you can see, this is more of a “tutorial” rather than a pattern, so I’m excited to see all the variations that you guys make ♥

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIA

You may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com

Plague Mask FREE Crochet Pattern // Nerdy Quarantine Makes

I created this pattern as a funny addition to the 2020 quarantine aesthetic. In these annoying times, all we have left is to laugh. Add a little comedy to your every day life by making your very own Plague Mask!

This pattern consists of the most basic stitches, so it’s technically beginner friendly. If you think you’ll have lots of questions along the way I’d be happy to answer them! Picking up a new hobby is great for your mental health. Especially if you are making something, because at the end, the final product is like a little victory ♥

With everyone uploading their face-mask selfies, wouldn’t you like to go the extra mile with a full on Plague Mask?

If you decide to wear this out in public, I HIGHLY recommend that you also wear a disposable mask underneath. The mask may be bulky, but crochet stitches are very porous either way. Also, this won’t make you suffocate. I wear a mask with 3 layers of fabric and 2 filters on the regular, here in Tucson, Arizona where it is usually over 100°F!

The ad-free and printable version of this pattern can be found here.

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.

ABBREVIATIONS (AMERICAN TERMS)

  • Ch: Chain
  • Sc: Single Crochet
  • Sl st: Slip Stitch
  • Sc dec: Single crochet Decrease
  • (xx): Numbers in bold mean stitch count at the end of each round

Gauge and dimensions:

In a 1 inch by 1 inch square of stitches there should be 4sc and 4 rows of sc.

Materials Needed:

  • 4.50mm Crochet Hook
  • Medium Weight Yarn (Red Heart Super Saver in White)
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended)
  • Stitch Marker (improvised markers: paper clip, bobby pin, piece of different color yarn)
  • Two sunglass lenses without the frame.

To block the mask:

  • Liquid glue
  • Water
  • A bowl
  • Something to prop the mask open, (I used a tupperware lid)
  • Brush (optional)

Pattern

PIECE #1

Repeat this piece twice.

  • Row 1: Ch 21, sc 20 (20)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, sc 17, 1 sc dec (18)
  • Row 3: Ch 1, skip 1st stitch, sc 17 (17)
  • Row 4: Ch 1, sc 15, 1 sc dec (16)
  • Row 5: Ch 1, skip 1st stitch, sc 15 (15)
  • Row 6: Ch 1, sc 13, 1 sc dec (14)
  • Row 7: Ch 1, skip 1st stitch, sc 13 (13)
  • Row 8: Ch 1, sc 11, 1 sc dec (12)
  • Row 9: Ch 1, sc 12 (12)
  • Row 10: Ch 1, sc 12 (12)
  • Row 11: Ch 1, skip 1st stitch, sc 11 (11)
  • Row 12: Ch 2, sc 10, 1 sc dec (11)

Sc into the extra chains to make the additional stitches.

  • Row 13 – 19: Ch 1 , sc 11, (7 rows) (11)
  • Row  20: Ch 2, sc 11 (11)
  • Row 21 -24: Ch 1,  sc 11 (4 rows) (11)
  • Row 25: Ch 1, skip 1st stitch, sc 10 (10)
  • Row 26: Ch 2, sc 9, 1 sc dec (10)
  • Row 27 and 32: Ch 1, sc 10 (5 rows) (10)
  • Row 33: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 9 (9)
  • Row 34: Ch 2, sc 9 (9)
  • Row 35: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 8 (8)
  • Row 36: Ch 2, sc 9 (9)
  • Row 37: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 8 (8)
  • Row 38: Ch 2, sc 9 (9)
  • Row 39: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 8 (8). Fasten off and leave a 20 inch long tail for sewing

PIECE #2

Repeat this piece twice.

  • Row 1: Ch 8, turn around and sc 7 (7)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, 5 sc, 1 sc dec (6)
  • Row 3: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 5 (5)
  • Row 4: Ch 1, 3 sc, 1 sc dec (4)
  • Row 5: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 3 (3)
  • Row 6: Ch 8, sc 8, 1 sc dec (9)
  • Row 7: Ch 1, sc 9 (9)
  • *[Row 8: Ch 2, sc 10 (10)
  •    Row 9: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 9 (9)]* Repeat Rows 8 and 9 (7) times.
  • Row 22: Ch 1, sc 9 (9)
  • Row 23: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 8 (8)
  • Row 24: Ch 2, sc 9 (9)
  • Row 25: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 8 (8)
  • Row 26: Ch 1, sc 8 (8)
  • Row 27: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 7 (7)
  • Row 28: Ch 2, sc 8 (8)
  • Row 29: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 7 (7)
  • Row 30: Ch 1, sc 7 (7)
  • Row 31: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 6 (6)
  • Row 32: Ch 2, sc 7 (7)
  • Row 33: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 6 (6)
  • Row 34: Ch 2, sc 7 (7)
  • Row 35: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 6 (6)
  • Row 36: Ch 1, sc 6 (6)
  • Row 37: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 5 (5)
  • Row 38: Ch 2, sc 4, 1 sc dec (5)
  • Row 39: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 4 (4)
  • Row 40: Ch 1, sc 2, 1 sc dec (3)
  • Row 41: Ch 1, skip the 1st stitch, sc 2 (2)
  • Row 42: Ch 1, 1 sc dec (1). Fasten off and leave a 20 inch long tail for sewing

PIECE #3

Repeat this piece twice.

  • Row 1: Ch 17, (Sc 3, 1 sc inc) X4 (20)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, (1 sc inc, 4 sc) X4 (24)
  • Row 3: Ch 1, (Sc 5, 1 sc inc) X4 (28)
  • Row 4: Ch 1, (1 sc inc, 6 sc) X4 (32)
  • Row 5: Ch 1, (Sc 7, 1 sc inc) X4 (36)
  • Row 6: Ch 1, (1 sc inc, 8 sc) X4 (40)
  • Row 7: Ch 1, (Sc 9, 1 sc inc) X4 (44)
  • Row 8: Ch 1, (1 sc inc, 10 sc) X4 (48)
  • Row 9: Ch 1, (Sc 11, 1 sc inc) X4 (52). Fasten off and leave a 20 inch long tail for sewing

ASSEMBLY

Align pieces #1, #2, and #3 as pictured and pin the pieces in place. Align the bottom corner of piece #3 onto row 19 of piece #1 and row 16 of piece #2. This corner is very important for the shape of the mask. Once you like the alignment, sew the pieces together along the dotted pink lines shown below using the yarn tails. This forms half of the mask, repeat this process for the other set of pieces.

Align both of the halves as pictured and sew them together along the yellow dotted line:

EYE DETAILS

Reattach the yarn to the inside of one of the eyes, ch 1, and (3 sc, 1 sc inc) X5 on the inner edge of the eye. Since this stitch count may not be exact, sc 1-3 at the end if needed. Fasten off and repeat this process for the other eye.

LENS POUCH:

Ch 24, sl st to the first stitch to form a ring. (3 sc, 1 sc inc) X6.
Sl st to the first sc, ch 1, (4 sc, 1 sc inc) X6, sl st to the first sc.

Sew the outer edge of this small doughnut
to the inside of the mask, right behind the
eye holes, this will create a pouch to hold
the sunglass lens.

Alternatively, you can skip making the lens pouch if you glue the lenses directly to the inside of the mask.

HEAD BAND

Attach yarn to the crease at the side of the mask, around the height of the cheekbone. Chain 55-65 depending on personal head size. Sl st to the crease on the other side of the mask and sl st back on each chain to make it thicker and sturdier. 

You’re technically done! But you’ll notice that the mask itself is pretty flimsy, which is why I blocked it by diluting glue in a bowl with water and damping the yarn with this mixture. The mask has to have this shape when it dries, so you’ll need something to prop it open and upright, I used a tupperware lid that I could later wash. 

It’ll take a couple of hours to dry out but this step is so worth it to help the mask keep its signature shape ♥

Thank you so much for choosing my pattern!
If you liked this design please consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar below (but don’t feel obligated to!)

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIAYou may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com

Basic Doll Base Chibi Amigurumi // Nerdy FREE Crochet Pattern

I have played around and re-designed the doll base that I use for my amigurumi over the last couple of years. I prefer to make them look more like caricatures rather than hyper realistic figurines. This involves a lot of experimenting witrh their proportions and their size, but I have finally designed the pattern that makes them look amazing every single time ♥

Making amigurumi is kind of like using building blocks where you pick a doll base + a specific hair style + clothes + accessories. Which is why I made Build Ami, the Amigurumi Series on how to make any amigurumi you want piece by piece.

The ad-free and printable version of this pattern can be found here.

The definitions for all crochet abbreviations used can be found here.

Materials Needed:

  • 4.50mm Crochet Hook
  • Medium Weight Yarn (Red Heart Super Saver)
  • Polyester Fiberfill
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle (metal recommended)
  • Stitch Marker (improvised markers: paper clip, bobby pin, piece of different color yarn)
  • 12mm Safety eyes and their backings (optional)

Pattern

This entire pattern is worked in the round and most of it is a single piece.

  • Round 1: MC, 6sc (6) set your marker
  • Round 2: 6 sc inc (12)
  • Round 3: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 4: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 5: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)
  • Round 6: (2sc, 1 sc inc, 2sc) x6 (36)
  • Round 7-14: Sc  around. Re-place your stitch marker after completing each row.
    (8 rounds), (36)

ADDING SAFETY EYES:

Skip this section if you’re not using safety eyes. The eyes will be placed between rounds 10 and 11, after the last stitch from round 10 count 5 stitches to the left and place the first safety eye into the next space. Count to the left and place the second eye in the 7th space from the first eye.
In the pictures below, the stitches are placed at the end of rounds 10 and 14.

  • Round 15: (2sc, 1 sc dec, 2sc) x6 (30)
  • Round 16: (3sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (24)
  • Round 17: (1sc, 1 sc dec, 1sc) x6 (18)
  • Round 18: (1sc, 1 sc dec) x6 (12)
  • Round 19: (1sc, 1 sc dec) x4 (8)
  • Round 20: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (12)
  • Round 21: (1sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (18)
  • Round 22: (1sc, 1 sc inc, 1sc) x6 (24)
  • Round 23: (3sc, 1 sc inc) x6 (30)

Count 7 stitches after the end of this round and sc into the 8th. This creates the first arm hole, we will not work on it until further on. Single crochet a total of 8 stitches across, count 7 stitches to leave untouched and sc into the 8th stitch, sc across for a total of 8 stitches. This completes the first row of the torso.

VERIFY YOUR COUNTING: You should have 2 arm holes consisting of 7 sc each and this first row of the torso should be a total of 16 stitches around.

Set your stitch marker and sc for 5 more rows for a total of 6 sc rows.

LEGS

Since working in the round offsets the stitches, keep track of the end of each row. At the end of the torso’s 6th round:

  • Round 1: Sc 3 (pictured on the right), count 8 stitches back, you should now be on the opposite side of the torso, sc into this 8th stitch, sc 5 to complete the first round

VERIFY YOUR COUNT:
You should now have divided the torso into two equal-sized holes for each leg. (8 stitches each)

Round 2-7: Sc all around

After 7 rounds, sl st and fasten off leaving a 4 inch tail. Using your yarn needle go through the outer loop of each stitch and then pull the tail to close the opening. Hide the yarn end inside.

Attach the yarn at the base of the torso next to the first leg and sc around. To close the gap between the union between the legs grab a random stitch from the middle of the first leg as well as both loops from the next stitch and work a single crochet. This completes the first round. Continue with sc all around for 6 more rounds and close the leg just like you closed the first one.

ARMS

Attach the yarn to a stitch on the corner of an arm gap, sc 7 around and work one sc on the “armpit” area (pictured). There is no evident space to place this sc but you need it in order to have proportionality between arms and legs.

This completes the first round. Sc around for 6 more rows for a total of 7.  Sl st and fasten off leaving a 4 inch tail. Using your yarn needle go through the outer loop of each stitch and then pull the tail to close the opening. Hide the yarn end inside.

Repeat this process on the other side to make the second arm.

This completes the Basic Doll Base pattern. You can add and change details however you need!

Thank you so much for choosing my pattern!
If you liked this design please consider leaving a tip in the Tip Jar below (but don’t feel obligated to!)

I’D LOVE TO SEE YOUR PROJECTS! IF YOU HAVE PROGRESS PICTURES OR WANT TO SHARE YOUR FINISHED PROJECT PLEASE TAG NANO STITCHES ON SOCIAL MEDIA

You may sell your product providing pattern credit to Nano Stitches on Instagram, Etsy, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Ravelry or any other social media in which you advertise. The pattern itself shall not be copied. If you sell the items you must use your own pictures for advertising. If you need assistance during the process or find someone else selling my pattern feel free to contact me on social media  or email me at nanostitches9@gmail.com

New Year’s Crafty Resolution: Crochet Temperature Blanket

Happy 2020!

There is so much excitement and hopefulness all around us as we begin a new year. There is just something about the sound of “2020” that makes it sound so futuristic and clean. For better or for worse I bet this will be a truly memorable year, and for that I invite you to join me in this year-long crochet craft.

If you’ve never done any crochet this is a totally beginner friendly project, all you need is patience, persistence, and lots of yarn.

Temperature Blanket

If you’ve never heard of this project before, the idea is that every day you take the average temperature of the place you live in, you designate a color to every temperature range and every day you crochet a single line of the designated color. By new year’s you’ll a blanket that’s 365 lines long (366 in this case, yay leap year!). 

To keep a nice proportion, I did a 150 chain for the base, you chain one at the end of each row, turn your work, and either change your color or carry on. You can do simple single crochet stitches all across the row, this makes an even and simple result. Personally I liked the idea of the colors interlocking each other so I chose to work with the moss stitch.

To work with the moss stitch the very first row needs to be all single crochet. For the rest of the rows chain one at the start, and then alternate:

1 Single crochet, 1 chain, skip 1 stitch and single crochet in the next.

This way you have a gap every other stitch. On the next row you’ll do the single crochet in the gap rather than on top of the single crochet of the last row. After a couple of rows you’ll see how this makes the colors interlock!

My Materials:

Medium weight yarn and a 4.5mm hook. Decided to work with cotton yarn since it’s a lot softer than acrylic and it wont pill as much.

I’ll try to keep a neat temperature log and update my progress, if you decided to start your very own blanket make sure to post a picture in the comments!

Good luck and Happy New Year!